how to soundproof a wall
How To Sound Proof A Wall
How To Sound Proof A Wall

Paper-thin Wall Woes
We've all heard the phrase "paper-thin walls" and I guess it kinda carries with it a sort of negative connotation. Forgive the brutal honesty, but no one likes hearing every fart and burp from their kids' bedroom – or worse yet, their living room! And the thing is, if you can hear their noises, they can probably hear YOUR noises as well. That can be a frightening thought to say the least. Suffice it to say, no one should be made to undergo the consequences of thin walls!
Here in Japan, we literally have paper-thin walls, as many of our walls are actually made of paper – called shouji or fusuma doors. Doors because instead of proper walls, we have sliding doors you can remove at will. This enables you to join 2 rooms together and make one big room etc. Now not ALL rooms here are made with these kinds of "doors" as their walls, but in your average house, there are traditionally at least 2 rooms which are plagued with this style of building.
Ok I'm sorry, it's not actually a plague, because it really can be beautiful when properly taken care of and when you don't allow the kids to go running around poking holes in your shouji doors. Japanese houses are made strong, as well as delicately and fearfully, and reflect the culture and character of the people. We are by nature, quiet and reserved, and enjoy the stillness and solace of our houses.
Having said that however, when you have 12 kids running around doing their thing, and never seeming to have enough money to reform and upkeep the house, these things can really seem like nothing less than a CURSE! I'm not gonna lie to you. Paper doors look really, REALLY bad when they have holes and tears everywhere, are old, dirty, and have graffiti all over them. And what happens when you think you're in the black and decide to change everything to new only to have them rendered right back to their same despicable state?
Yup, it begins to wear you thin – just like your walls. And although these particular walls take the cake, thin wall woes can come with proper, solid walls too! Nowadays, with building companies trying to shave off as much of a profit as they can, the overall workmanship has gone down. Have you seen the movie "The Money Pit" with Tom Hanks? Uh huh, that's what I'm talking about! The average wall here in Japan consists of ribbing, and a 9.5mm sheet of sheet-rock on either side with wallpaper over it.
Well, for those of us who are making our own rooms, we actually have a say in how thick our walls and floors are as well as what material we use! Let's choose wisely and take the bigger picture in before making decisions. It's much easier to make it the way you want from the beginning! My advice for a reasonably (minimum) sound-proof wall consisting of your average building material is 12mm plywood+12mm sheet-rock – this is one side. (If you have a bigger budget you can go for the fiberglass or cellulose insulation.) Putty the joints and throw wallpaper over it and you have your wall!
How can I make my shared wall in a duplex more sound proof without ripping apart the wall?
I don't want to rip apart the walls as I rent. Is there anything I can put on my side of the shared wall to absorb some of the noise? Please help, I have a neighbor that complains about my son being too loud at night, don't know what to do!
Mind you this is in the bedrooms so it needs to look nice.
First .. discuss with your landlord and either get him/her to arrage or agree to you doing it (assuming you have the skills).
First a few facts. Soundproofing is really a question of cutting low frequency (bass) transmission. Highs and midrange are comparitively easy (basically seal the room and you're done). Cutting bass require decoupling of the inner surface from the other side so the sound is not transmitted through the wall or damping the wall by adding mass (or both).
Since the wall already exists and there are limitations on what you can practically do you must recognize that you can't totally soundproof ... but you can improve the situation. Although recognize the following would not make any difference to sound transmission through the floor or ceiling!
One option is to put a new layer of drywall over the existing surface with an elastomeric glue. One such product is called Green Glue (See first link for details and test results).
A second option is the use of Resilient Sound Isolation Clips and metal furring strips with a new layer of drywall over them. See the second link for detais and test results.
Basically both the Green Glue and the "RSI Clips" serve to decouple the new wall surface from the existing wall.
The outer edge of the new wall surface in either approach must be sealed with a non-hardening elastomeric caulking (Read the labels carefully at your local hardware / building supply store). And of course the new drywall will have to be taped and sanded then painted.
Sounds complicated I know ... but the other suggestions will only provide marginal improvements.
You should be able to convince your landlord that the cost would be an investment in both good relations / tenant satisfaction and for future advertizing purposes... and if not maybe you should move.
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